The turning radius with our kit is slightly increased over stock. Most customers
have said it is an insignificant amount, if not unnoticeable. You will still be able to
easily whip in and out of parking spots or driveways. Overall turning circle is
increased by about five feet. If you are experiencing a large increase in turning
radius (the car doesn't turn as sharp) then please check the following:
1) If the car turns sharper one direction than the other then the rack has not
been properly centered. Recenter the rack as outlined in the instructions.
2) Check “Mounting Location of the Tie Rod End” on pg 13.
3) Have the customer measure the total distance of the rack travel. In the
Corvette and Mustang applications the rack should be moving 6.1” from full left
to full right (not 5.7”). If the rack is only moving 5.7” then they have a short travel
rack and may need to replace the plastic bolt keeper inside the rack unit which we
1) Rotate the pinion shaft until the rack bolts are all the way to the left position
2) Make a mark with a piece of tape where the LEFT bolt comes to a stop
3) Rotate the pinion shaft until the rack bolts are all the way to the right position
4) Make a mark with a piece of tape where the LEFT bolt comes to a stop - make
sure you measure the same location on the same bolt as you did with the 1st measurement.
5) Measure the distance between the two marks. The bolt should travel 6.1” from full
left to full right positions. If it only travels 5.7” the rack may need to be replaced.
PLEASE NOTE - if you are running your stock tire size, due to the tall side wall
on occasion the driver's side tire can rub on the end of the rack. This is at the very
end of the rack's travel and should not affect your turning radius much (usually
when we see this happening there is already evidence of the tire rubbing on the
frame rail). These taller tires may rub, but most do not. Going with a slightly lower
profile tire will eliminate this from happening.
0 - .25 Negative Camber
2.5 – 4.75 Positive Caster (usually as much as possible)
0 – 1/8” Toe In
NOTE - The more caster you put into a vehicle's suspension, the more the car will
want to return to center after a turn. It also increases the resistance in the steering
insure that products last the life of the vehicle and stay safe on the roads. One thing
we cannot stress enough with the Steeroids™ rack and pinion kits is the
importance of having your u-joints adjusted correctly.
If your u-joints are not adjusted correctly the most noticeable thing you will
experience is a 'binding' in the steering. You will notice a stiff spot in your steering
wheel every 90 or 180 degrees of rotation. This is caused by over-angulation or
improper alignment of the u-joints. This may not always be noticeable with power
steering cars when the vehicle is running because the boost of the power steering
pump may overpower the binding and you may not notice it. You need to make
sure that the rotation of the steering wheel / u-joints is absolutely smooth
throughout the entire travel of the rack unit with the front wheels off the
ground and the engine off, rotating the shaft by hand. If you feel any binding at all,
it needs to be adjusted out or else there will be premature wear. Follow the steps
below to make sure the u-joints are adjusted properly:
1) First, make sure that there are no shafts protruding into the center portion of
the u-joints. This includes the steering column, the intermediate shaft between the
two u-joints and the pinion shaft on the rack. If any shafting is protruding into the
center portion of the u-joint it can hang up on the yoke of the u-joint while it is
rotating and cause stiff spots and binding.
2) Make sure that all of the shafts are completely engaged into the u-joints. The
steering column, the intermediate shaft and the pinion shaft on the rack unit all
need to be fully inserted into the u-joint (but not protruding into the center portion
of the u-joint as mentioned above).
.3) Be sure your u-joints are phased correctly. Use the chart below to determine
4) Once the first three steps are finished evaluate the u-joint rotation. If you still
have binding, loosen the steering column. There are two locations to loosen it –
one at the fire wall and the other under the dash near the steering wheel. Once the
column is loose, pull the column back toward the driver. This will relieve the
angle on the u-joint. (You may need to loosen the u-joint on the column to pull the
column back.) Only a little movement of the steering column can make a big
difference in the u-joints. Now, while the column is loose, slide the forward end of
the column toward the engine. The steering column has some horizontal
adjustment built into it, and again, a little bit goes a long way. NOTE – If you have
a Corvette, you will need to loosen the support bearing to make these adjustments
and let the bearing 'float' until you are finished tightening the column back up.
5) Corvette Owners: If you are experiencing u-joint binding the problem is most
commonly found in the upper double u-joint where it attaches to the column.
Usually the binding occurs when the upper u-joint gets into an 'S' shape when
viewed from the top. You want to adjust the column so that the u-joint makes a
nice, smooth arch from the column down toward the rack.
If you purchased your Steeroids rack and pinion kit over 6 months ago, you may
want to download a current set of installation instructions for more tech tips. You
can download them from our website at the link below:
If the steps above do not solve the binding issue, you may need to check to see if
you have a collapsible steering column. If so, they can be compressed or extended
to better accommodate the u-joint configuration. Be sure to check the condition of
the bearing at the end of the column as well. A worn out bearing can cause the
column shaft to move around, resulting in play in the steering and potentially
binding. One final option is to use a different length intermediate shaft between
the u-joints. This is extremely rare (usually only encountered when the customer
has an aftermarket steering column or other aftermarket components changing
the geometry). If you need a different length intermediate shaft, they are available
at the link below in two inch increments. You can then trim the intermediate shaft
to be the correct length for your application.
If your u-joints have already worn out due to improper alignment, you might
not be able to get the binding out of them because they are twisting and binding
up. To determine if your u-joints are worn and need replacement, remove each ujoint
and try to twist them (wringing them like you would a towel). If you feel any
play or motion in the u-joint, it needs to be replaced.
You may see the rack move inside the rubber mounting bushings where the rack mounts to the frame brackets. The rubber bushings that mount the rack are the hardest ones we can find (they are stiffer than the OEM bushings). We are researching having some poly mounts made but do not have them available yet. This amount of movement should be minimal. You will notice that the center tie rod bracket moves up and down a small amount on the rack unit. As outlined in the installation instructions, this is normal (See section below discussing this movement). On Corvette and Chevelle Steeroids kits it is acceptable to have a slight amount of play where the intermediate shaft passes through the support bearing. It should not be flopping around in there though.
After you have installed the Steeroids rack and pinion kit, there should not be any
'Play' in the steering wheel. This is also referred to as a 'Dead Zone' and it takes
place when you turn your steering wheel back and forth a slight amount and there
is no resistance – the wheels and tires are not responding. This can cause the car to
be unresponsive and is a dangerous condition. Usually people automatically think
there is something wrong with the rack unit itself, but the rack is actually VERY
seldom the problem. If you are encountering 'Play' in the steering wheel with our
kit, follow the steps below.
It might be easiest to have another person help you at first. While the engine is off,
have one person turn the wheel back and forth a little bit - but only turn it within
the 'Dead Zone', not all the way back and forth through the whole travel of the
rack. Have another person carefully look through the entire system while this is
happening. Usually you will see a place where motion is happening on one end of
a component but not on the other. This is a good place to start. Even if you find a
problem, it is a good idea to check all of the suggestions below:
1) Check the condition of the forward most steering column bearing. If this
bearing is worn out it can cause excessive play in the steering wheel.
2) Download a current set of installation instructions by going to the following
link and choosing your vehicle application and then proceed to step 3 below:
Camaro / Firebird 1967-1969 or Nova 1968-1974: http://speeddirect.com/downloads/install/Camaro%20'67-'69%20Install%20Instructions%20for%20web%203-06.pdf
3) Re-tighten all of the set screws on the u-joint assembly as outlined in the
installation instructions (the order they are tightened in is important!). You will
need to loosen the jam nuts first. If they were not tightened in the correct order or
if a bur of metal got under a set screw the u-joint can then get loose on the splined
shaft (both at the column and at the pinion shaft on the rack and pinion unit). For
the rack unit be sure to tighten the set screw that sits on the flat spot of the
pinion first, then tighten the set screw on the round portion (see photo – the flat
portion is shown on the left of the shaft and the round portion is on the right).
4) Double check that the bolts traveling through the center tie rod bracket into
the center of the rack are torqued to the correct amount as outlined in the
5) Double check that both your inner and outer tie rod ends do not have any play in
6) (Corvette Kits Only) Look at the support bearing where the intermediate shaft
between the u-joints passes through the bearing. If there is excessive play in the
support bearing, this will translate into play in the steering wheel. (We have
different sizes of bearing available and may be able to provide you one with
slightly tighter tolerances.) A small amount of play is acceptable, but it should be
If you have checked all of these items and everything is still tight, then you need to
see where exactly the play is coming from. Here are some areas to look for worn
1) The u-joints can get pre-maturely worn out if they were binding when installed.
Remove the entire u-joint assembly and try "twisting" each u-joint to see if there
is actually play in the u-joint itself. If there is any play the u-joint needs to be
replaced – and you need to make sure the new one is installed with out ANY
binding. Refer to the installation instructions to learn about installing the u-joints
without any binding.
2) While the u-joint assembly is removed, place a wrench on the pinion shaft of
the rack and turn the rack slightly back and forth to see if there is play in the rack
itself (this is actually VERY rare for there to be play in the rack. Usually the play is
found from other loose or worn parts.) When turning the pinion shaft, look for the
movement where the two center bolts pass through the center tie rod bracket into
After going through these steps if it is determined that there are some replacement
parts required, we can get you whatever you need. We have been using Borgeson
U-joints for several years now and the only time we have seen them wear out is if
they were installed incorrectly and were binding. All of the rack units have been
bench tested before they were shipped out, so if there appears to be an issue with
the rack we can discuss warranty replacements with you.
Some movement of the Tie Rod Bracket is normal. This is because as the steering
rack moves through its travel a small amount of motion, mostly rotation is
present. This should not be more than a couple of degrees and does not affect the
feel or response. This perceived movement is a combination of the mount inside
the rack and the rubber bushings which cradle the rack. If these were completely
rigid and without movement all the vibration created by uneven road or track
surfaces would be transmitted up the steering path to the steering wheel resulting
in a very noticeable and annoying vibration of the wheel as you drive.
The manual racks we use are just power racks that have been converted to manual
(either physically modified internally or simply a power rack used with a jumper
hose to make it manual, depending on which supplier we use). If you have a rack
with a jumper hose (a short hose connecting the high and low pressure ports of the
rack near the pinion shaft) then these racks can be used as a power rack later on if
the customer decides. Modified racks (with no hard hydraulic lines or jumper
hose) can not be made power later because they have been internally modified.
Most of the kits we sell are power kits. People seem to enjoy the benefits of the
rack and pinion steering more with the power kits because they are not fighting
the manual. Both systems will give you a dramatic improvement over the stock
steering, including quicker ratio steering, tighter feel and less bump steer.
However, the manual kits still require about the same amount of effort to turn as
the stock manual systems, so you have to lean on the steering wheel pretty hard
when you are stopped or barely rolling. Considerations with a manual kit should
include the weight of the front of the vehicle (small block, big block, aluminum
heads, etc.) and the width of the front tires. All of these will have an affect on the
amount of effort required to turn the steering wheel. Again, most people choose
the power steering kits unless they have race cars.
Before changing any single component of the steering system, inspect the
cleanliness of your system. Dirty or black fluid can quickly ruin new steering
components. If changing the box or rack, rub your finger on the inside of the
reservoir. If it isn't clean, you must flush the pump and hoses with clean fluid
before installing new components (see Flushing The System).
Never run synthetic fluid through your rack unit until the break in period is
over, usually around 1000 miles.
All power steering systems are designed to be self-bleeding, but sometimes they
need a little help. After installing new components, fill the reservoir and let it sit
for a few minutes. Raise the front end of the vehicle and turn the wheels back and
forth slowly with the engine off to allow the steering rack to draw fluid. Keep the
reservoir full. When the fluid level stops dropping, start the vehicle and continue
turning the wheels. When the fluid level remains constant the system is fully bled.
If tires are on the ground, put cardboard under the front tires while testing your
steering system. The cardboard will slide on the floor and prevent wearing flat
spots on the tire from excessive turning of the wheels while not moving.
Below are instructions on flushing the system:
Flushing the Pump Only: To flush to power steering pump only, place both the
high and low pressure hoses in a bucket and allow all fluid to drain. Add new fluid
allow to drain until it comes out clean. Don't run the engine with both hoses
disconnected. However, you can crank the engine with the ignition disconnected
so the pump rotates and clears the fluid.
Flushing the Pump and Rack Unit: Assuming the pump is clean and flushed, hook
the high pressure hose from the pump to the rack. Attach the low pressure hose to
the rack and run the other end into a bucket. Cap the return input on the pump.
While keeping the reservoir full, run the steering wheel back and forth with the
It should first be established when the groaning is occurring. Groaning usually
happens while turning the steering wheel but it is important to note if the power
steering fluid is cold, warm, or hot. Does the groaning happen after the car has
been driven a while or as soon as the engine starts?
- Check the reservoir level and top off as necessary
Check for aeration (bubbles) in the fluid. If present, be sure the system has been
bled as mentioned in the previous section. You may need to let the fluid sit for
several hours for the bubbles to dissipate. Once bubbles are no longer present in
the fluid check all hose connections for tightness and bleed the steering system by
turning the steering side to side about 5 times with the engine running. If bubbles
return, check to make sure all lines are tight. Again, you may need to allow
bubbles to dissipate before driving.
Is the pump new/rebuilt or old?
New/rebuilt pump- check for excessive bypass causing fluid to overheat. Is the
pump putting out too much pressure? (See below for pump pressure and volume
info.) If the pump is putting out too much pressure there may be a pump pressure
reduction kit available. We sell them for GM Saginaw pumps – part number
899001. We do not have them for the Ford pumps, but they do exist.
Old Pump – Consider replacing.
Check for line blockage and loose lines that could allow air to get into the system.
All of the Steeroids rack and pinion conversion kits are designed to work with the
stock power steering pump. More questions arise when people are not using the
stock power steering pump, or their stock pump has been rebuilt. Our racks can
handle anywhere from 900-1400 psi. Usually the higher the pressure the pump
puts out, the easier it is to turn the steering wheel (less resistance). If you have
lower pressure there is usually more resistance in the steering wheel. We prefer
running in the 1000-1200 range, but that is also up to the driver's personal
preference and the alignment settings (more caster = more resistance in the
steering wheel). If you have a stock pump that has been rebuilt and is putting out
more pressure than desired, we do offer pressure reduction kits for GM Saginaw
The pump cannot have a max volume exceeding 2.5 gallons per minute UNLESS
you have a system (such as Hydroboost braking systems) that includes an
additional amount of fluid over the stock amount. Why? If you run just from the
pump to the rack, then back to the pump, excessive heat is the enemy. Any more
than 2 gallons per minute could damage the rack. Systems with additional fluid
and routing allow the fluid to cool, allowing some pumps with higher outputs.
Unfortunately, higher output pumps may result in slightly less resistance in the
steering wheel. This, of course, is a matter of preference for the driver.
Steering feel can be described in two different ways, so the main thing we need to
do is determine what “too sensitive” means, and then work to fix it. Please see the
two different instances below:
1) If the steering wheel is too easy to rotate (no resistance in the steering
wheel), start here: If the steering wheel spins easily and it feels like there is no
resistance in the wheel, there are different adjustments that can be made to add
stiffness, or road-feel, back in to the steering. First of all, make sure the car has
been properly aligned TO OUR RECOMMENDATIONS. If the car was aligned
to the factory alignment settings the car will feel light and darty with a tendency to
wander. Be sure to set to the following alignment recommendations:
Camber: Between zero and .25 negative
Caster: As much positive caster as possible (usually between 2.5 and 4.75
Toe: Between zero and 1/8 inch toe in
Alignment is the first thing to check. If the alignment has been set to our
recommendations and the wheel still does not have the resistance required, it can
be caused by remanufactured power steering pumps putting out more pressure
than preferred for the rack unit. Reducing pump pressure to about 1100-1200psi
will help increase the resistance in the steering wheel. If you have a GM Saginaw
pump we have pressure reduction kits that you can use to lower the pressure on
your pump at the link below:
2) If the steering wheel is too responsive due to the quick ratio (small
amount of steering input results in dramatic turning, for example, you change
lanes when barely touching the steering wheel), start here: The rack units that we
provide with our Steeroids™ kits are quick ratio racks that were used in multiple
GM performance cars. Honestly, it can take some getting used to! We recommend
driving the car for a good hour or so to get used to the feel of the kit. Once you are
used to it, we are confident that you will enjoy the fun responsiveness of the quick
ratio rack. However, some people would just rather not have the quick ratio. If that
is the case, we do have slow ratio racks available that will slow down the steering
responsiveness (taking the steering from 2.5 turns lock-to-lock to 3 turns lock-tolock).
We can swap the rack out without having to replace any brackets or any
other part of the kit.
Begin by determining when the steering effort is heavy. If you increase the rpm
from idle to about 1500 rpm does the power assist work? Is the steering effort too
heavy all the time, regardless of engine speed or vehicle speed? Is there any
associated power steering pump noises such as groaning or whining?
If the lack of power assist is only at idle then your options are to:
-Increase the engine idle speed
-Increase the speed that the pump rotates at by either increasing the diameter of
the crank pulley or decreasing the diameter of the pump pulley
Check the reservoir while the engine is running to see if fluid circulates. The fluid
level should change slightly when the steering is moved.
- Check for kinked or collapsed lines and be sure there are no blockages in any of
If the power steering pump is older it is often the case that when a rack & pinion
unit is connected than it will start to whine or prove to be inadequate even though
it was working fine with the old steering. You may need a rebuilt pump if this is the
This series of rack and pinions were offered new on a variety of vehicles and from
multiple suppliers when they were new. Accordingly, the routing of the hard lines
which move fluid to and from the power assist pistons can vary considerably.
Your unit may have hard lines which interfere with the mounting brackets and
other items supplied with the kit. If your kit has this problem, normally you can
just bend the hard lines out of the way to clear the bracket(s). When doing this use
a socket or something round to bend the line around to avoid kinking the hard line.
On occasion the hard line cannot be bent out of the way because the fitting where
the hard line attaches to the rack is in the way (on center steer racks only used on
Corvette and Mustang applications). This is extremely rare, but if it is the case it
sounds like the rack may be phased incorrectly and may need to be re-phased. If it
seems this is the case then it can be fixed by the customer. Remove the band clamp
holding the passenger side of the rubber boot in place and pull the rubber boot
back. There you will see a large nut. Loosen the nut with an adjustable wrench and
then rotate the passenger side of the rack a few degrees back so that the fitting
clears the bracket. Once it has been rotated back (usually about 5 degrees) then the
customer can re-tighten the large nut and then secure the passenger side of the
boot back into place using a large hose clamp.
Bump Steer Adjustment
Bump Steer (or Bump Steering) is a term used to describe when a vehicle hits
uneven or rough surfaces and causes the car to wander or become darty. What
causes that? Basically, if the tie rods and the lower control arms are not the same
length and parallel to each other when the suspension travels up and down they
will be traveling at a different radius from each other. This causes the alignment to
toe in and toe out as the suspension moves, causing the car to wander and dart
while on rough surfaces – which is annoying and dangerous!
Every Steeroids Rack & Pinion kit comes with adjustable tie rod ends that include
a series of three spacers which allow you to fine tune the angle of your tie rods to
match the angle of the lower control arms – helping eliminate bump steer.
Correct Adjustment of Tie Rod Ends to Eliminate Bump Steer
Add and remove spacers provided to move the outer tie rod end up and down. The
goal is to get the steering tie rod assembly parallel with the lower control arm
pivot points. NOTE – you are NOT trying to get the tie rod assembly parallel with
the ground. Be sure to make adjustments when the vehicle is resting on its own
The tie rod ends should always be mounted in the forward most hole in the
steering arm / spindle. Not all cars have two holes in the spindle, but if your car
does have two holes, make sure the tie rod ends are mounted in the forward most
hole. This gives you the tightest turning radius and keeps the quick ratio.
The tie rod ends supplied with a Steeroids kit are impregnated with self
lubricating Teflon and require no lubrication for the lifetime of the rod end.
No dust covers are required on Steeroids tie rod ends. They have an internal self
cleaning Teflon wiper to prevent dirt and road grime from entering the bearing.
The flange on the bolt which accepts the
spherical rod end (tie rod end) is designed
to stand off of the steering arm a prescribed
distance and therefore will not fit tight
against the steering arm. (see photo below)
This is to allow proper standoff
distance for the rod end.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO MODIFY THE BOLT IN
Turn Signal Return / Cancel
If the turn signal does not self cancel or only cancels in one direction you can
disconnect the upper u-joint (position the wheels to point straight ahead first) from
the column and center the steering wheel so it will cancel in both directions with
an equal amount of steering input. Hold that position and reconnect the upper ujoint
to the column. If the steering wheel is off center you can remove it and
reinstall it so that it is straight.
NOTE – There are more steering column notes in the “Mustang Specific” section
at the end of this document.
Header Clearance List
We have an ever growing list of headers that do and do not fit listed on our website
for all of our Steeroids kits. Please look in our website Tech Info section to see
what hits and what fits.
Corvette C1 (1955-1962) missing
Corvette C2-C3 (1963-1982) http://speeddirect.com/index.aspx?nodeID=87
Mustang 1964-1970 http://speeddirect.com/index.aspx?nodeID=116
On occasion, the headers will be extremely close to part of the Steeroids™ rack
and pinion kit and can cause clearance issues. It may be an option to dimple the
headers in the place the clearance issue is located to gain more room for fitment.
To dimple a header you can heat the header tube with a torch. Once heated, take a
large socket and wrap it in a rag and gently tap the socket against the header to
make a clean, smooth dimple in the header tube. CAUTION – do not heat the
header tube so much that it causes the rag to catch on fire! We have successfully
done this with ceramic coated headers without effecting the coating.
The power steering pump and bracket supplied with the kit is designed to work
with a crank pulley that has a second groove that measures between 1.3” and 1.5”
from the face of the harmonic balancer. A pulley diameter ranging from 5” to
6.75” will work. Important information to know about the crank pulley:
- Crank Pulley must be for a short style water pump
- Crank Pulley must have two grooves
- Does not need a 2 groove water pump pulley but will work with one
- May require water pump pulley shims
- May require crank pulley shims
Suggestions for crank pulleys are as follows:
- Trans Dapt 9481 aluminum
- Mr. Gasket 4973 steel (chrome)
Alternator / Generator Relocation
If the Alternator / Generator is located on the driver's side of the car there will be a
clearance issue with the power steering pump. The customer will need to relocate
the alt/gen to the driver's side using Corvette Central (www.corvettecentral.com)
301162 (MOUNTING ADAPTOR PLATE - RIGHT GENERATOR /
ALTERNATOR WITH HEADERS) and 302015 (ALTERNATOR SUPPORT
BRACKET - RIGHT). The customer may not need both brackets, the customer
will need to double check.
Differences Between 63-82 Corvette Kits
We offer 5 different Corvette kits between 1963 and 1982. There are two primary
differences between the kits: U-Joints and Hoses
1963-1966 take a 3/4" U-Joint at the steering column, where 1967-1982 take a 1"
U-Joint at the steering column.
1963-1979 small block kits have a pressure power steering hose with a different
phase angle than the big block pressure hose.
1980-1982 have their own pressure power steering hose
Steering Column Bearing
The general condition of the steering column bearing is very important to the
proper functioning of the Steeroids u-joints. If the factory column bearing is loose
or worn it can introduce enough movement in the column shaft to cause the ujoints
to bind. If your bearing is not tight it is recommended that it be replaced.
Steering Column Length
The length of the factory steering column shaft is important to the proper
installation of the u-joint assembly. For C3 Corvettes the dimension from the
firewall to the end of the column (without the rag joint) should be 7” and
measuring just the shaft from the bearing to the end is 4.6”
NOTE – If you have a collapsible steering column there is a chance it will need to
be extended / compressed.
Oil Pan Recommendations
Most oversized oil pans fit as long as the stock steering fits. We are running 7 qt
Milodons (part number 31505) on our development vehicles. The factory
327/365 SHP motor which has the larger 6 quart oil pan does not fit with the stock
steering, and does not fit with our kit either. Milodon #31188 *stepped drag race
pan* will fit BB C2 and C3's even with big stroker engines. The following are
some measurements off of our 78 small block (with a 7 qt Milodon) that may help:
Back of sump to front of sump: 9"
Back of sump to rack: 12"
Clearance at the top of the rack: 1/2"
From the front of the pan back, you need about 7" clearance
Mounting Bracket Strength & Flexing
It is a common concern if the brackets made for any steering conversion kit are
strong enough to handle the appropriate loads. Steeroids rack and pinion kits have
steel mounting brackets that are designed to handle loads encountered in normal
use with a set of wide tires, while turning when the car is at rest (the highest load
The brackets are stress tested both in our development facility with sensitive
deflection tools and out on the race track where we try our hardest to punish these
parts to the extreme. In fact, we once received some photos of our kit on a
customer's race car after he slid the car off the race track into a curb at a high rate of
speed. He did significant damage to the front of the car, but NONE of the
Steeroids brackets broke. The rack and all of the brackets were bent severely, but
everything was still in tact. We were very pleased... With years of experience and
testing, plus thousands of these kits on the road from street cruisers to racers, you
can be confident that a Steeroids rack and pinion kit will be durable and rugged
enough to handle whatever driving style you throw at it.
Engine Conversion Compatibility
* LS ENGINES:Many customers are changing to LS engines. There seems to be
only minor modifications necessary. The main clearance issue is with the oil pan,
however, if you use a Firebird oil pan, it seems to work just fine. We have not
heard anything about headers, but stock manifolds should work. You may be able
to check our header clearance page for measurements.
GM SERPENTINE SYSTEMS:If you are using a GM Serpentine System, we
recommend ordering the kit for the Big Block. We have had customers tell us that
our hoses for the Big Block kit hook directly up without any modification on some
OIL PAN CLEARANCE:Most oversized oil pans fit as long as the stock
steering fits. We are running 7 qt Milodons (part number 31505) on our
development vehicles. The factory 327/365 SHP motor which has the larger 6
quart oil pan does not fit with the stock steering, and does not fit with our kit either.
Milodon #31188 *stepped drag race pan* will fit BB C2 and C3's even with big
stroker engines. The following are some measurements off of our 78 small block
(with a 7 qt Milodon) that may help:
Back of sump to front of sump: 9"
Back of sump to rack: 12"
Clearance at the top of the rack: 1/2"
From the front of the pan back, you need about 7" clearance.
MORE:There are many engine conversions that will work. All the LS engines
have been used in conjunction with Steeroids (LS1 to LS7). We have found that
the Street and Performance oil pan will work. Many other pans will work as well.
Manual To Power Kit Conversion
If you are changing your Corvette from manual to power, you will need to get
some additional bolts to help with the installation of the Steeroids kit. Power cars
have two bolts that support the hydraulic cylinder bracket and the Steeroids kit
requires these two bolts. If you do not have them, you will want to get them. You
can order them from us - part number A7019. You will also need your own power
steering pump, pump mounting brackets, pump pulley and additional groove on
your crank pulley if one is not currently available. We have some kits available to
help with this if you need it.
Steeroids Compatible With Hydro-Boost?
Steeroids is compatible with Hydro-Boost systems. It can be plumbed just like
any power steering system. Generally the pump needs to produce 2.5 GPM at the
minimum for Hydro-Boost and this flow rate will work with the Steeroids rack.
One consideration is that the Hydroboost kits usually require 1200-1400 psi and
our Steeroids kits run optimally around 1000-1200 psi, so if you run high boost
with the Hydroboost kits it can over boost the Steeroids kit, so try to set your pump
in a range that will work with both kits.
Manual to Power Conversions
Please note that if your car currently has manual steering and you are planning on
installing a Steeroids rack and pinion kit (power or manual Steeroids) that you
need two crush nuts, part number 760-02774. You will also need your own power
steering pump, pump mounting brackets, pump pulley and additional groove on
your crank pulley if one is not currently available. We have kits available to help
Manual Transmission Clutch Linkage Interference
TRANSMISSION / CLUTCH INFO: The kit was developed on an automatic. We
are still working on fitment applications for the manual transmissions. At this
time, the manual transmissions with the manual bell crank (Z-bar) will NOT work
without some modification. The kit will work with most manual transmissions
with a hydraulic clutch or a clutch cable set-up (The 94 and 95 T5 Tranny may not
work with the Steeroids kit if you are using the clutch cable set up. 93 and earlier
should work however.) Clutch cable kits are available from Modern Driveline or
through Mustang Steve. To make our kit work with a manual clutch linkage set
up, you would need to move the Z-bar forward about 3/4", or up about 1.5". We
have had customers make the following modification with success and it only
took them a couple of hours to make it:
To move the Bell Crank (Z-bar) up about 1.5", you can make a bracket out of flat
steel for the engine block side. Support the lower end of the flat steel bracket to the
block and then mimic the mounting locations that were in the block on the top side
of the bracket. Mount the Z-bar to the top of the new bracket. On the frame rail,
just use spacers to lift the Z-bar 1.5" to match the block side. The upper clutch rod
that passes through the fire wall can usually slide up without any problem (the
hole in the fire wall is pretty large) and the lower pushrod has enough adjustment
to accommodate the change. All in all, if you have access to some hand tools, it is
not that challenging to make it work.
Steering Wheel Splines
We offer steering columns with both GM splines for aftermarket steering wheels
and with Ford splines for stock steering wheels. The base kit we offer is with the
GM splines because with the quick ratio rack many people prefer to go to smaller
aftermarket steering wheels. If you want to keep your factory steering wheel, the
Ford splined columns are available at additional cost (check for current pricing).
Mustang kits with GM splined columns require an aftermarket steering wheel that
will fit on 68 and later GM passenger cars. If using a Grant steering wheel they can
use adapter number 3196.
See notes about oil pans. Also check the header clearance pages.
Most oil pans work fine with our kits. However, there are a few pans that will not
work: We have heard that the cobra t-type aluminum oil pan for big block has
clearance issues. Also the 7qt Canton oil pan does NOT fit with the 351W. A
customer informed us that on his 1970 Mustang our kit did not clear a 7qt Canton
oil pan on a 351W. Some stock big block oil pans are a tight fit too. On rare
occasion the rack might barely hit the pan. People have remedied this by placing
washers on top of the motor mount to lift the engine just a touch and that has been
enough to make it fit fine. In general, if your oil pan does not fit with the stock
steering it probably will not fit with our kit because our kit occupies the same
location as the stock steering. If your stock steering fits, our kit should too.
The following measurements may help you determine if your pan will work with
the kit: When measured from the existing Ford cross brace that goes under the oil
pan, our bracket sits 2.25" back from the back side of the cross brace and 1.25"
higher than the top of the brace where it dips down to clear the oil pan.
Other Ford Applications
We have a lot of people wondering what other applications this kit will fit on. So
far, we have not tested this kit in our shop on any Ford applications other than the
Mustang years specified. If you wish to try the kit on a different application, you
will be responsible to determine if the kit will fit before you install it as we cannot
give a refund for a kit after it has been installed. THIS KIT WAS DEVELOPED
ON A MUSTANG. To date, many customers have installed our kit on Rancheros
and Cougars with success (sometimes there are minimal clearance issues), but we
have not tried them for ourselves! Regarding the Falcon, we have a customer who
installed our kit on a 1960. The main issue he ran into was adapting the u-joint
assembly and lowering the rack. The u-joint assembly we provided with the kit
would not work. He purchased a 6" shaft and double u-joint from us for the
column and made his work fine. This requires a support bearing to secure the ujoint
assembly. He ordered a column from us and it worked fine in his Falcon.
Contact us for more info / photos about the modification and fabricating required.
6 Cylinder Engines
Currently, if you have the straight 6 and are interested in the power kit, we do not
have hoses available to run from the rack to the pump. Most hydraulic shops can
make you some hoses that will fit for a reasonable price, or we can recommend a
company to have them made. We can also discount the price of a kit that does not
If you are using Grenada spindles for the disc brake conversion, please make note
in the comment box on the online order form or notify your sales person so that we
can send you the correct tie rod ends. There is no extra charge.
Corvette Installation Instructions
Camaro or Firebird 1967-1969, Nova 1968-1974: http://speeddirect.com/downloads/install/Camaro%20'67-'69%20Install%20Instructions%20for%20web%203-06.pdf