Mustang General Tech Info

Other Possible Applications for Steeroids: Many customers have asked us which other Ford cars the Mustang Steeroids kit will fit. So far, we have not tested this kit in our shop on any Ford applications other than the Mustang years specified. If you wish to try the kit on a different application, you will be responsible to determine if the kit will fit before you install it as we cannot give a refund for a kit after it has been installed. THIS KIT WAS DEVELOPED ON A MUSTANG. To date, many customers have installed our kit on Rancheros and Cougars with success (sometimes there are minimal clearance issues), but we have not fitted a kit to these vehicles. Regarding the Falcon, we have a customer who installed our kit on a 1960 model. The main issue uncovered was adapting the u-joint assembly and lowering the rack. The u-joint assembly we provided with the kit would not work. He purchased a 6″ shaft and double u-joint from us for the column and made his work fine. This requires a support bearing to secure the u-joint assembly. He ordered a column through us which worked fine in his Falcon. Contact us for more info / photos about the modification and fabricating required.

Steeriods & the Other Kits:

Brand T:
Steeroids has a quicker ratio  for a tighter more responsive drive.
Steeroids does not remove critical structural components – they require you to remove the frame cross brace!
Steeroids come with new, adjustable, teflon lined tie rod ends to adjust bump steer.
Steeroids has better bumpsteer curves compared to Brand T.
Steeroids costs much less that Brand T.

Brand F:
Steeroids offers a quicker ratio  for a much tighter more responsive drive
Steeroids offers power assist in addition to manual kits available
Steeroids fits with most headers
Steeroids works with big blocks
Steeroids has better bumpsteer curves compared to Brand F.
Steeroids has a tighter turning radius

Notes:

FLUID: We recommend that you use GM power steering fluid (which will work with your Ford Pump) since most Ford power steering fluids have detergents in them that can be harmful to the seals. Please do not run synthetic fluid through your rack unit until the break-in period is over, usually around 1000 miles.

STRAIGHT 6 – POWER KITS: Currently, if you have the straight 6 and are interested in the power kit, we do not have hoses available to run from the rack to the pump. We are working on them and plan to have them available soon. Most hydraulic shops can make you some hoses that will fit for a reasonable price, or we can recommend a company to have them made. We can also discount the price of a kit that does not include hoses.

GRENADA SPINDLES: If you are using Grenada spindles for the disc brake conversion, please make note in the comment box on the online order form or notify your sales person so that we can send you the correct tie rod ends.

TRANSMISSION / CLUTCH INFO:  The kit was developed on an automatic. We are still working on fitment applications for the manual transmissions. At this time, the manual transmissions with the manual bell crank (Z-bar) will NOT work without some modification. The kit will work with most manual transmissions with a hydraulic clutch or a clutch cable set-up (The 94 and 95 T5 Tranny may not work with the Steeroids kit if you are using the clutch cable set up. 93 and earlier should work however.) Clutch cable kits are available from Modern Driveline or through Mustang Steve. To make our kit work with a manual clutch linkage set up, you would need to move the Z-bar forward about 3/4″, or up about 1.5″. We have had customers make the following modification with success and it only took them a couple of hours to make it:
To move the Bell Crank (Z-bar) up about 1.5″, you can make a bracket out of flat steel for the engine block side. Support the lower end of the flat steel bracket to the block and then mimic the mounting locations that were in the block on the top side of the bracket. Mount the Z-bar to the top of the new bracket. On the frame rail, just use spacers to lift the Z-bar 1.5″ to match the block side. The upper clutch rod that passes through the fire wall can usually slide up without any problem (the hole in the fire wall is pretty large) and the lower pushrod has enough adjustment to accommodate the change. All in all, if you have access to some hand tools, it is not that challenging to make it work.

TURNING RADIUS & TIRE CLEARANCE: The turning radius with our kit is slightly increased over stock. Most customers have said it is an insignificant amount, if not unnoticeable. You will still be able to easily whip in and out of parking spots or driveways. PLEASE NOTE – if you are running your stock tire size, due to the tall side wall on occasion the driver’s side tire can rub on the end of the rack. This is at the very end of the rack’s travel and should not affect your turning radius much (usually when we see this happening there is already evidence of the tire rubbing on the frame rail). These taller tires may rub, but most do not. Going with a slightly lower profile tire will eliminate this from happening.

POWER CONVERSIONS: We now offer a kit that includes the pump’s mounting bracket and fasteners. Check them out in our store by clicking here! Pumps and pulleys soon to follow!

OIL PANS: Most oil pans work fine with our kits. However, there are a few pans that will not work: We have heard that the cobra t-type aluminum oil pan for big block has clearance issues. Also the 7qt Canton oil pan does NOT fit with the 351W. A customer informed us that on his 1970 Mustang our kit did not clear a 7qt Canton oil pan on a 351W. Some stock big block oil pans are a tight fit too. On rare occasion the rack might barely hit the pan. People have remedied this by placing washers on top of the motor mount to lift the engine just a touch and that has been enough to make it fit fine. In general, if your oil pan does not fit with the stock steering it probably will not fit with our kit because our kit occupies the same location as the stock steering. If your stock steering fits, our kit should too.
The following measurements may help you determine if your pan will work with the kit: When measured from the existing Ford cross brace that goes under the oil pan, our bracket sits 2.25″ back from the back side of the cross brace and 1.25″ higher than the top of the brace where it dips down to clear the oil pan.

CRUSH NUTS: If your car was not originally equipped with power steering, you may need to install the threaded inserts into the bottom of the frame. Crush nut p/n 760-02774  is available on our shopping website by clicking here! You will need two of them. They install with special crush nut installation tool or they can just be welded in place.